This is the view from the deck of our cabin, looking down toward the little Rio Manuelitas and across to the mountains, the Sangre de Cristos, that embrace the broad valley. Sometimes we can hear the bugle of elk in the forest across the valley, and this morning, walking the dogs, I heard the coyotes’ dawn song filling the air. In the fall, the valley is golden; in the rainy season--June and July--it’s a sea of yellow-spangled green. Now, in the dead of winter, the grass is covered with snow and the rancher feeds his herd of black Angus cattle with hay tossed from his pickup truck, the cattle following in long, snaking black lines across the snow.
This valley has a long and vivid history. It was part of the Apache and Ute migratory range, then claimed by Spain when it conquered Mexico in the 1520s. It was a Spanish possession until Mexico declared its independence in 1821, then became part of the United States with the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, in 1848. New Mexico became a state in 1912. Three small villages were settled here: Rociada (just out of this photo, at the far left); tiny Upper Rociada, a few miles higher in the mountains; and even tinier Gascon, another mile farther, still higher.
In the 1870s, Jean Pendaries and wife Maria left their native Gascony and came to what is now New Mexico, making part of the long trek by wagon along the Santa Fe Trail. Pendaries helped to build the Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas (you can still see it on the north side of Old Town Plaza), then moved his family to this valley and established a ranch along the river. The original ranch house was located near the tip of the wooded ridge, just below Rociada. After Pendaries’ death, the ranch passed to one of his daughters, Marguerite Baca, who (with her husband Don José) built a much larger, two-story adobe ranch house. That house burned in 1962 and was rebuilt by the then-owner of the ranch, the same Texan who developed the village where our house is located, above the valley.
I love to watch the shadows of the mountains moving across the valley, and the grazing cows, and the crows and ravens cartwheeling in the clear air. But mostly, I watch the always-changing mountains, glowing red in the dawn, waiting to catch the setting moon in their embrace.
Reading note, from Behind the Mountains, stories about this valley written in 1955 by Oliver La Farge, whose wife Consuelo was the granddaughter of Jean and Marie Pendaries and who often visited here: Down the middle of the valley runs a clear, fast, noisy stream in which one may take trout. In the lowland along the stream and its tributaries are the farmlands; beyond them are the pastures reaching to the high-wooded knees of the mountains. Behind the crests of the first rugged walls, shaggy with spruce and fir and pine, are the main peaks, with the brown, domed, pure rock of El Ermitano, snow-powdered until midsummer, as a monument and guardian notching the western sky.